


Archery Help for Writers in Middle-earth

by HASA_Archivist



Category: The Lord of the Rings - J. R. R. Tolkien
Genre: Other - Freeform, Research Article, Subjects - Explores obscure facts, Writing - Clear prose
Language: English
Status: Completed
Published: 2015-06-27
Updated: 2002-09-18
Packaged: 2018-04-06 09:03:35
Rating: General Audiences
Warnings: Creator Chose Not To Use Archive Warnings
Chapters: 5
Words: 4,099
Publisher: archiveofourown.org
Story URL: https://archiveofourown.org/works/4215777
Author URL: https://archiveofourown.org/users/HASA_Archivist/pseuds/HASA_Archivist
Summary: <blockquote class="userstuff">
              <p>A Glossary of Terms for archery which might be of use to authors writing of elven or medieval-type warfare.  Many other technical details of archery and shooting included.<br/>*  Updated Nov 2005, now that the author has actually taken up archery!  :-)</p>
            </blockquote>





	1. Glossary of Basic Archery Terms

**Author's Note:**

> Note from the HASA Transition Team: This story was originally archived at [HASA](http://fanlore.org/wiki/Henneth_Ann%C3%BBn_Story_Archive), which closed in February 2015. To preserve the archive, we began manually importing its works to the AO3 as an Open Doors-approved project in February 2015. We posted announcements about the move, but may not have reached everyone. If you are (or know) this author, please contact The HASA Transition Team using the e-mail address on the [HASA collection profile](http://archiveofourown.org/collections/hasa/profile).

Since many of our beloved characters of Middle Earth include Elven or other archers, I thought perhaps a simple Glossary of Terms might be useful, for when we are writing and find ourselves thinking, "Now WHAT is that called...?"

 

This is the _revised_ version of my earlier article, as I have since taken up archery myself.  However, bear in mind that I am very much a beginner, and there is far more to the art and skill of archery than I can cover in a few pages.  This is simply information gleaned from several written sources, which I thought might be of use to writers of Middle Earth.  A bibliography of my sources appears at the end.

 

~ Erin  


November 2005

 

 

ARCHERY HELP FOR WRITERS IN MIDDLE EARTH  
By ErinRua  


 

 

**GLOSSARY OF BASIC ARCHERY TERMS**  
 **Anchor:**  
The place where an arrow's nock is drawn to before release, usually the chin, cheek, ear or chest. Used to help aiming.  
 **Anchor Point:**  
The position to which the bowstring and the arrow are pulled to.  
 **Archer's paradox:**  
In period bows (without a shelf or centre shot) the arrow which is properly shot will fly in the line of aim although the string propelling the arrow moves directly to the centre of the bow. The arrow in fact bends around the bow after release but after passing the bow returns to its proper line of flight.  
 **Arrow:**  
The missile shot by an archer from a bow.  
 **Arrowhead:**  
The striking end of an arrow, usually made of a different type of material from the shaft such as iron, flint or bronze, depending on the purpose of the arrow.  Also called a point.  
 **Arrow Straightener:**  
Device to straighten bent (damaged) arrows.  
 **Arrowsmith:**  
The person making metal arrowheads.  
 **Bracer:**  
A covering for an archer's wrist (for the bow arm), used to protect the wrist from the slap of the string.  Also called an Arm Guard or Brassard.  
( _MY NOTE:  Not to be confused with Vambrace, which is the piece of a suit of armor which fits same place, but is made of steel.  Some sources say archers often simply grew calluses over time, but if so, I would say the process left some incredible bruises_.)  
 **Bodkin:**  
A type of medieval arrowhead. It has generally 4 faces with 4 edges (like a small pyramid) in order to open and/or to cut chain mail.  
 **Broadhead:**  
A wide steel arrowhead used on hunting arrows. Used for hunting big game and during the Middle Ages for wounding the battle horses.  
 **Bowman:**  
An archer; somebody who shoots a Bow.  
 **Bowyer:**  
One who builds or repairs bows.  
 **Butt:**  
[1] The distance a bow can propel an arrow.  
[2] An earthen mound used as a backing for a target, and/or the target area.  
[3] A target made from compacted straw. ( _MY NOTE: 2 and 3 most common.  Target practice was called "shooting the butts_.")  
 **Cloth yard arrow:**  
An arrow of a certain length used for medieval English arrows, about 36 inches in length.  
 **Clout:**  
A white cloth placed on the ground as a marker for long distance shooting.  
 **Clout shoot:**  
An archery contest where the aim is to hit a target laid out horizontally on the ground.  ( _MY NOTE:  Archer must shoot in a high arc into the air in order to hit the clout, a very different challenge from shooting at an upright target_.)  
 **Cock feather:**  
The feather at right angles to the string position in the nock on three feathered arrows. ( _MY NOTE: The Cock feather will differ in color or type from the other feathers, for quick nocking to the string_.)  
 **Composite bow:**  
A recurve bow made from a number of materials laminated together (e.g. wood, sinew and horn).  
 **Creep:**  
Allows the arrow to edge forward at full draw just before the release of the arrow. ( _MY NOTE: Creeping is a fault, lest it weaken aim or the force of the arrow's flight_.)  
 **Crest:**  
Colored marks or bands painted near the nock of an arrow for identification purposes.  
 **Draw:**  
The pull of the bowstring back into the shooting position with proper anchor.  
 **Draw Weight:**  
The draw weight of a bow is calculated by the number of kilograms (or pounds) required to draw the bowstring back to full draw length (Usually to a standard length of 28').  
 **Draw Length:**  
The draw length of a bow is the distance the arrow is drawn back before release. To determine your correct draw length, draw an arrow all the way back and have someone mark the shaft with a pencil at a point even with the front of the bow. To make sure that arrowhead does not contact the fingers of the bow hand when shooting, an additional 2 to 2.5 centimeters (1 inch) is added to the measured draw length. Draw length determines what length of arrows you should use.  
 **Feathers:**  
(Also called Vanes.) The flights on an arrow to aid in stability in flight. The larger the feathers are, the faster the arrow stabilizes, but the slower the arrow flies. It is a part of the fletching.  
( _MY NOTE: In target shooting, recovery of spent arrows is concerned with retrieving the arrows with the fletching undamaged. e.g. Don't just rip them up out of long grass, or the fletching may be torn or mangled, and thus require replacement before the arrow can be used again_.)  
 **Fletch (to) :**  
Action to attach fletches to arrows.  
 **Fletcher:**  
An arrow maker.  Also, a person who attaches fletches to arrows.  
 **Fletching:**  
To add feathers to an arrow. Or the set of feathers on an arrow.  
( _MY NOTE:  An old superstition was that there must be clouds in the sky for fletching_.)  
 **Flight Shooting:**  
Long distance shooting.  
 **Flinch (to) :** :  
To move the Bow arm or the string arm to the side at the moment of the release. This is a very common fault especially amongst beginners.  
 **Heel:**  
End part of the arrow (where the nock is).  
 **Hen feathers:**  
The feathers which are NOT at right angles to the string position in the nock on three feathered arrows. (= all feathers except the cock feather)  
 **Herse:**  
A defense work consisting of sharpened wooden stakes driven into the ground pointing towards the oncoming enemy, used to protect archers from cavalry charge.  
 **Herse of Archers:**  
A wedge formation of archers supported on the flanks by men-at-arms, used by the English during the Hundred Years War.  
 **Horn:**  
Usually on Longbows. It is a piece of horn which is glued at the tips of the Bow and contains the groove in which the bowstring goes.  
 **Hunting Arrow:**  
Type of arrow used for hunting. There are many types of hunting arrows: they can be mounted with different sorts of hunting point, with 2 or 4 blades, with blunts, with judo points, ...; they can also have different types of vanes: broad and long for bird hunting, "normal" for bigger game, other vanes for fishing, etc...  
 **Instinctive shooting:**  
Shooting without the aid of sights, used particularly in field archery and hunting.  
 **Kisser Button:**  
Put on string and placed in such a way that it touches your lips when at full draw. Helps to maintain consistency.  
( _MY NOTE: In the form of a small bead which does not interfere with nocking arrow - Not common in English longbow shooting_.)  
 **Limbs:**  
The two "ends" of a bow, from the handle out, which bend and give the arrow its flight motivation.  
 **Longbow:**  
A self bow longer than the height of the user, commonly between 66 and 76 inches length, preferably made of yew and made famous by the English at Crécy, Poitiers and Agincourt.  
 **Loose:**  
Also called release.  To release the string of a bow to propel an arrow towards its target.  
 **Master Eye:**  
The eye the Archer actually uses for aiming.  
 **Nock (1) :**  
[1] The deep groove in the end of an arrow into which the bowstring is fitted.  
 **Nock (2) :**  
[2] Also, the grooves at either end of the bow (or teardrops) which hold the bowstring in place.  
 **Nock (3) :**  
[3] The act of fitting an arrow to the string.  
( _MY NOTE: Not to be confused with stringing, the act of putting the string on the bow_.)  
 **Notch:**  
The grooves at either end of the bow (or teardrops) which hold the bowstring in place.  
 **Nocking Point:**  
The spot on the bowstring where the nock of the arrow is to be placed prior to drawing and shooting.  
 **Pile:**  
A type of arrow head used for target shooting.  
 **Popinjay:**  
A figure of a bird suspended from a pole and used as a target by archers and crossbowmen.  Also called Papegay.  
 **Pull:**  
The act of pulling the bowstring to full draw.  
 **Quiver:**  
A device for holding arrows, located on the bow or the archer himself. Some models can be fixed on the back, others on the shoulder or at the belt.  
 **Recurve bow:**  
A bow where the limbs bend away from the archer when held in the firing position.  
( _MY NOTE: This means both ends of the limbs curve forward a bit like the top of an S. When unstrung, a Recurve bow bends in the opposite direction that it bends when drawn. A long or short bow only bends one way.  This bow will use a shorter arrow than the Longbow_.)  
 **Roving (or Stump Shooting) :**  
Shooting practice or exercise where the Archer walks through the countryside and shoots at any natural objects he decides to. It is an EXCELLENT exercise because the distances are never known, and he may choose targets as difficult as he wants to.  
 **Self Bow:**  
A self Bow is a bow made completely of wood. It can be made out of a single piece (called a stave) or two pieces (called billets) joined at the handle. A self Bow can have a backing, although if that backing is another wood, it becomes a laminate.  
 **Serving:**  
The extra thread wrapped around the middle of the bowstring to prevent the arrow or the archer's fingers from fraying the string causing it to break.  ( _MY NOTE: This is the point where the arrow is nocked to the string. This is the ONLY part of the bowstring that is NOT kept waxed. Serving must be dry and non-sticky, and can be re-wrapped when worn_.)  
 **Shaft:**  
The body of an arrow.  
 **Sheath of arrows:**  
A bundle of twenty-four arrows.  
 **Short bow:**  
A bow usually half the height of the archer using the bow.  
( _MY NOTE: This bow will not be able to safely or effectively shoot the same arrows as the longer, stronger Longbow_.)  
 **Stave:**  
A piece of wood destined to be shaped into a bow.  
( _MY NOTE:  Staves usually of dark yew wood, and were seasoned for at least seven years before shaping.  Must be straight-grained and free of knots_.)  
 **String:**  
[1] A bowstring.  
[2] To fit a bow with a string.  
( _MY NOTE: this is not to be confused with fitting / nocking an arrow to the string_.)  
 **Stringer**  
[1] An aid to stringing a bow.  
[2] A maker or seller of bowstrings.  
 **War bow:**  
A bow primarily made for use in war, often of stupendous draw-weights of 100 pounds or more.  
 **Whistling arrow:**  
An arrow with a large hollow head with openings in front and sides. When shot the air rushing through the openings makes a whistling noise. ( _MY NOTE: These were sometimes used to send messages on a battlefield, as the whistling would bring attention to their arrival_.)  
\------  



	2. Shooting Flaws and Errors

**Summary for the Chapter:**

> A Glossary of Terms for archery which might be of use to authors writing of elven or medieval-type warfare. Many other technical details of archery and shooting included.

**SOME ARCHERY TRIVIA**

**SHOOTING FLAWS / ERRORS:**

**_\--- Faults for Bow Arm: ---_ **

Bow arm elbow too straight, or locked/hyper-extended - this will cause string to slap forearm on release.

Bow arm bent at elbow when at full draw.  Arm should be firmly straight, but not rigid or elbow locked.

Bow arm (left) shoulder hunched towards chin - improper attempt to brace for pressing bow outwards, common when beginners try a heavier bow.  Both shoulders should be on a level plane.

Wrist of bow arm bent to the left.

Wrist of bow arm too stiff - Wrist should be in natural press against the bow.

First and second fingers of bow hand separated when grasping the bow - Allows hand to improperly tip up on the bow, rather than maintaining a loose fist.

 

**_\--- Faults for String hand: ---_ **

Creeping - Allowing string hand with string to relax or "creep" forward during aim or release, or allowing bow hand to come/creep backwards.  
   
Plucking - To jerk upon release of string, rather than letting the fingers simply stop pulling.  This will cause the arrow to fly left or high.  
Anchor point - Error can be in allowing index finger on string to drift off anchor point away from the face, causing arrow to fly to the left.  Anchor point can also be mistakenly placed too high, too low, or too far forward.  
Too much of the fingers on the string - String should rest in first joint of the fingers, at right angles to the string.

Too little of fingers on the string - If fingertips only hold string, hand is not at right angles, and fingers could easily slip off string and cause premature release.

Knuckle joint bent on string hand - Fingers where knuckles join the hand should not bend and stiffen, but should be relaxed and naturally follow to string.  
 ** _\--- Reasons for Missing Target ---_**

Anchor point is off. ( _See above, and further definition below_.)

Aim wrong - Error in not coming fully to point of aim before release.

 

Aiming with left eye - this is usually the weak eye, and will send arrow off-target.

Plucking on release - this sends arrows left and high.  
Relaxing - Allowing shoulders and arms to relax at moment of release, instead of properly continuing push/pull for follow-through.  Only the string hand should relax.

 

Creeping - this will weaken the draw and may make arrows fly low.  
Flinching - either flinch of bow arm or drawing arm will send arrows astray.

Lifting chin - to meet string and finger upon drawing, instead of properly holding head steady and bringing finger to it.  Bring the string to your face; don't bring your face to the string.  
String hitting bow arm - the bow-wrist is turned in or elbow is hyper-extended, which can make aim go awry.

Extending bow arm first and _then_ drawing string, which tends towards bracing with too-stiff wrist and elbow of bow-arm.

 

Sighting on "wrong arrow" - If sighting with both eyes, a trick of vision shows the archer two arrows, but only the arrow which appears to be to the left is the correct one. (For right-handed archers. One can point finger and close alternate eyes to see effect.)

Tipping or bending - A tendency to bend backwards at the hips. Body weight should be evenly placed on one's feet.  



	3. Miscellaneous Archery Info

**Summary for the Chapter:**

> A Glossary of Terms for archery which might be of use to authors writing of elven or medieval-type warfare. Many other technical details of archery and shooting included.

**Notes for the Chapter:**

> Sometimes bows are made from a single stave, but often they are spliced and/or laminated, since it is often easier to find two shorter pieces of good quality which can be made to match, than to find one long, high-quality stave.

**OTHER INFO:**

**Anchor point** \- Position to which the string hand and arm are brought at full-draw for firing. This MUST be the same position taken every time an arrow is drawn, for any sort of consistency in aim. Elbow of string-hand must be about shoulder-high, in order to bring shoulder and forearm into line with the arrow, and upper edge of end segment of forefinger touches just under the corner of the archer's jaw.  
  
 **To Draw -** Muscles of archer's back press bow and pull string simultaneously, so that push and pull bring both hands to full draw at about the same time.  One must never employ only arm-strength to draw, but must engage back and shoulders as well, as if scrunching the shoulder blades together.  
  
 **Release** \- The instant your aim is found, string is released simply by allowing the fingers to quit holding. ONLY fingers relax, however; arm and shoulder and back muscles will remain in push/pull of bow and string, until the arrow has fled. Hands of bow and string will naturally spring apart in follow-through, an involuntary motion which should not be made voluntary.  
  
 **Bow Care** \- Bow _must_ be unstrung when not in use, to avoid springing the bow by constant tension, and preferably stored in a soft leather case.  String must be kept away from the damp, or it will lose its snap and elasticity.  "Dry-firing" a bow is unwise, as this can set up high-frequency vibrations that crack the bow. Over-drawing a bow (as with an arrow too long for it) is likewise detrimental. Bows do NOT take whacks and dings well. Any least crack in the wood or horn can fracture to result in total bow failure. At best, such a crack or chip can be sanded/scraped out, but then the entire bow must be worked down to match, which can result in a lighter, weaker bow.  The wood of the bow must be periodically waxed to keep it in condition, but never so heavily as to be sticky or tacky.  
  
 **Waxing** \- Bowstrings are kept waxed for smoothness and elasticity, yet not so much so that they become tacky. Only the Serving (wrapped thread where the fingers and arrow go) is left un-waxed. If the bowstring starts to look fuzzy, light wax is rubbed in with a bit of leather, and any excess gently scraped off. A few little frays in the bowstring can be simply snipped off and waxed away, but care must be taken that a string does not become weak enough to snap.  
  
 **Pulling Arrows from Target** \- Place left hand against target with arrow protruding between first and second fingers, and grasp arrow close to the target with right hand. Then push the left hand against the target with the same force it takes to pull the arrow right-handed from the target. Arrow must be drawn straight to avoid kinking or bending. If arrow penetrates until feathers have entered the target, or has slid along the ground into grass roots and weeds, the arrow must be drawn forward and out the other side to prevent stripping or fraying of fletching.  
  
 **Arrow Quality** \- It is of benefit to the archer to have quality arrows made to very nearly match in weight and "spine," or springy-stiffness. Arrows of differing weight, "spine," length, or fletching will not fly the same nor achieve consistent accuracy.  
  
 **Arrowheads, Pinned or Knurled vs. Glued** \- Changes in temperature or weather/humidity can loosen arrowheads, as can much use. A glued arrowhead is easily replaced if the rest of the shaft is still good, but is also more easily lost. A pinned or knurled arrowhead will withstand more use, but cannot be replaced once it splinters from the shaft.  
  
 **Arrowhead Replacement** \- If the arrowhead was glued on, it can be replaced if the rest of the arrow is still good. However, if it was pinned/knurled on, likely the shaft will be splintered when the arrowhead is broken or torn loose.  
  
 **Arrow / Bow Compatibility** \- Arrows made for another bow can be ineffective or even hazardous. For instance, a clothyard shaft for a Longbow would be an ill match for a Short Bow, and could in fact injure the shorter bow, if the archer over-drew the bow to compensate for the greater length of arrow.  In contrast, a too-short arrow in a longer bow will have a weak cast, because the bow cannot be drawn to its full strength without dropping the arrow.  
  
 **Warped arrows** \- Warped wooden arrows may sometimes be straightened by heating over low flame (don't scorch it!) and carefully bending it straight, then holding it until it is cool and set. One can look down the shaft of an arrow and twirl it, to see if it is warped from use.  
  
 **Feathers/Fletching** \- Can be replaced if the rest of the arrow is still good.  
  
 **Self-Bows** \- Bows which are made of a single type of wood.  
  
 **Backed Bows** \- Bows which are strengthened by having a thin strip of tough wood, rawhide, or fiber glued to the back (outermost) of the stave.  
 _Note:_ Sometimes bows are made from a single stave, but often they are spliced and/or laminated, since it is often easier to find two shorter pieces of good quality which can be made to match, than to find one long, high-quality stave.  
  
 **Bow Weight** \- this is the pounds of pull required to draw the bow and bring the arrow to its full length.  
  
 **Bow Length** \- is determined by the length of arrow it is intended to shoot. Longer arrows require a longer bow, and vice versa for shorter.  
  
 **Finger-Protection** \- Many written works espouse the use of finger protection for the string-hand, when a bow is to be used with great regularity. These can take several forms. A) "Shooting glove", a very fine, close-fitting leather glove, with thumb and least finger cut out for ventilation.  
B) "Tab", simply a fine piece of leather (preferably Cordovan) with two holes cut in it, so that when the fingertips wrap around the string the leather shields them.  
C) "Stalls" which are simply fingertips custom-sewn of leather to fit just the string fingers.  All of these are made of good leather that is sturdy enough to protect the fingers, but fine enough that the archer can still feel and control the string through it.  
( _As an added note, I have NO idea if gloves or other things were used in the Middle Ages, or if habitual archers simply grew sturdy calluses. This is just for our edification_.)


	4. Parts of the Arrow and Bow

**Summary for the Chapter:**

> A Glossary of Terms for archery which might be of use to authors writing of elven or medieval-type warfare. Many other technical details of archery and shooting included.

**PARTS OF THE ARROW:**   


**Arrowhead** \- that sharp pointy thing on the business end.  
  
 **Shaft** \- the wooden body of the arrow.  
  
 **Crest** \- Painted/colored identification stripes (if desired) applied just forward of the fletching. These can be personal, heraldic, tribal, clan, etc.  
  
 **Fletching -** the three feathers at the rear of the arrow designed to stabilize flight and create lift. The feather placed at right-angles to the Nock is the "Cock" feather, and may be another color from the other two "Hen" feathers, for ease of finding the nock. Fletching may be applied parallel to the shaft's length, or set in a slight spiral.  
  
 **Nock** \- the notched end at the very butt of the arrow, where the string is inserted prior to shooting. The nock may be simply a smooth groove cut cross-grain of the wooden shaft, or it may be a bit of shaped, smooth horn glued to the end of the shaft. The nock must be smooth enough that it does not cut or fray the bowstring.  


**PARTS OF THE BOW:  
**

**Handle -** Slightly thickened midsection where the archer grasps the bow.  
  
 **Belly** \- Curved inner part of the bow, closest the archer when drawn.  
  
 **Back** \- Flat outer part of the bow, facing away from the archer towards the target when drawn.  
  
 **Upper Limb -** Top half of the bow. (Yes, they do have a top and bottom.)  
  
 **Lower Limb -** Lower half of the bow.  
  
 **Arrow Plate** \- A bit of decorative horn, bone, mother-of-pearl etc., that is inlaid on the arrow-side (left side) of the bow, just above the handle.  Since the arrow does not actually create much wear, this is mostly for looks, as well as to make the upper half of the bow easy to identify.  


**String Nocks** \- grooved horn or wood tips at both ends of the bow to which the string is strung.  
  
 _Odd Fact_ : An arrow when nocked for drawing is properly laid across the bow-hand on the LEFT side of the bow, not the right. ( _Look at photos of Orlando/Legolas shooting, and you will see examples of this_.) Recall the "archer's paradox" for more on how that curiosity of flight works and works well.  
  
  



	5. Resources and Bibliography

**Summary for the Chapter:**

> A Glossary of Terms for archery which might be of use to authors writing of elven or medieval-type warfare. Many other technical details of archery and shooting included.

**_Added Info:_ **

How-to on Archery, with illustrated drawings:  <http://thunder.prohosting.com/mfoster/archery/shooting.html> 

How to String a Bow: <http://www.archery-centre.co.uk/HowToStringBow.shtml>

How Not To Lose Arrows:   
<http://www.archery-centre.co.uk/HowNotToLoseArrows.shtml>   _Fun especially if you are writing a scene about someone teaching a beginner archer_.) 

How To Make Wooden Arrows: <http://www.archery-centre.co.uk/MakeArrow.shtml>  


Archery 101: How-To's and Why For's: <http://www.geocities.com/armonye@sbcglobal.net/archery101.html>   


Archery 102: Maintaining your equipment:  
<http://www.geocities.com/armonye@sbcglobal.net/archery102.html#2B>   


Archery Articles: Various historical and technological articles:  
<http://margo.student.utwente.nl/sagi/artikel/>   


Hunting with the Bow and Arrow: On-line reproduction of Saxton Pope's historical treatise on hunting, written circa 1920's:  
<http://www.fw.umn.edu/FW4105/8hbow10h/8hbow10h.htm>   


\------  


**Bibliography of Sources:**  
"Archery" - by Reichart and Keasy, copyright 1936-1940 A.S. Barnes and Co.  
"Dictionary of the Middle Ages:  Volume 2" - by Joseph R. Strayer, Editor in Chief, Charles Scribner's Sons, NY.  
"The World of Archery" - by Fred Bear  
"Longbow: A Social and Military History" - by Robert Hardy  (* _Recommended reading, lots of interesting stuff._ )  
Medieval Archery: <http://www.ping.be/olivier_picard/history/>   


Compiled Sept 2002.  Revised November 2005. All errors are the fault of the compiler.

****


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